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  • Yet another Newbie question

    Quick question. I adopted a 5-6 ft BCI on friday. The guy at the rescue organization had kept him for a month and fed him a couple mice every wednesday. He said he fed him lightly because he was slightly emaciated. He's healthy now. But today it has been two weeks since he's eaten. When I picked him up the guy told me he was a couple days past due for dinner so I needed to feed him, but he won't eat. I tried thawed rats, and even put a live mouse in there for a little while (that didn't work and I had to let the mouse go in the woods because if he won't eat live ones that just fine, i'd rather feed him pre-killed ones). But I am sure he is a little stressed from the move, I was just wondering how long is still ok for me to keep him without eating. Is it normal for him to need this long for adjustment? And about how long will he need, and what are some suggestions at coaxing him into eating a dead rat.

    Hope these questions make sense. Thankyou.

  • #2
    Add on to the Newbie question

    Meant to add on more thing. When I signed up for the adoption a couple months ago, I went out and bought a 55 gallon aquarium (four feet long, 2 high, 18?in deep). I had signed up to get a smaller BCI, but this is the way it worked out. I have some plans to build a larger encloser, because I hate to keep him in this aquarium, both for aesthetic reasons, and because he deserves bigger. It will be a few weeks to a month before I am able to build this new encloser... He is about 5feet long, will he be ok for a few more weeks in the aquarium? I get his out a lot so he can exersise.

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    • #3
      Re:Add on to the Newbie question

      He should be alright for a few weeks in the 55 gallon. I've merged this thread with your other one.

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      • #4
        Re:Yet another Newbie question

        Well, there could be many reasons why he is not eating. How is he healthwise? Are the temperatures and everything correct? Try feeding him at night and leaving the prey in the tote with him overnight. He should eventually eat. As long as he is healthy and has good weight, a few missed meals will not do any harm. I usually give my new snakes one or two weeks to adjust, it all depends on the snake and how they react to the move. Give us a little more information and we can cross out some of the possibilities.

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        • #5
          Re:Yet another Newbie question

          Like Xzylum said every snake adjust to a move differnt lenths of time. I have had snakes eat the same day they came in, and have had ones that waited 2 weeks. Now assuming the temps and humidity are correct because that could cause a snake not to eat.. I would wait 2-3 more days with very little to no handling and offer a rat of right size to him.. A 5 foot boas should be on small to medium rats. I can understand the rescue starting with smaller prey on a boa that is super under weight.. Now you just need to get him upto the right size food item.. Many tricks.. Try waiting 2-3 days and see what happens. If he doesn't eat them, just post and we will come up with some ideas to try.. Unless the boa is real thin, no emergency yet..

          Hope this helped
          Steve

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          • #6
            Re:Yet another Newbie question

            They have explained it well, he might be stressed still. Try not to handel for a few days. The other trick i've heard is put the rat and the boa in a pillow case and leave the case in the enclosure overnight. And like steve said, temps and humidity must be right, mostly temps. That also could put the boa in stress and it will be very reclusive. Hope everyone helped ya out ok. Keep us posted. 8)

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            • #7
              Re:Yet another Newbie question

              Like they said he is probably stressed. Also don't be worried, a snake of that size can go a LONG time without feeding, but you should get him feed as soon as possible.

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              • #8
                Re:Yet another Newbie question

                HI,
                Many boa's can go off feeding for numerous reasons as stated, but I ve found the number one reason is the cage is a little off temps,many boa's will go to the cool side and sort of shut down. This can occur without you realizing its happening. Be sure no part of the cage is less than 82 degree's. They can't digest food at less than 82 , another problems is they may have a poor immune response if too cool ,, are you measuring temps on the cool side 1 inch from the floor. I have a neat thermometer / humidity device on the warm side and a cheap little fish tank sticky thermometer on the cool.
                I check both daily even if the warm side is OK I'll bump the thermostat up a couple degree's until the cool side is 82 constant.
                her back side is about 92 but the ambient is 82 the thermostat sensor in this cage is closer to the che to prevent over heating in this cage. a very delicate thing placing heat and thermostat sensors.


                second cool side thermometer

                I had problems with this cage because the floor was 10 dergree's cooler than the ambients so I added a cobra mat to the thermostat under that flooring ,, belly heat stimulates appetite in my book..But it must have a thermostat. I also used that silver sided 1/4 sheet wall insulation on the flooring external and all non exposed surfaces walls back of cage flooring external I used duck tape to hold it in place and sealed the edges. this helps hold the heat the floor warmed up after this note this cage cost me almost 500 dollars to have it built and I have nearly another 200 hundred in heat and thermostat's and the company that buit this cage went out of business..
                I checked this cage with a 18 dollar temp sensor infared gun I bought at radio shack and found the floor of the hide at 98 directly above the uth the floor on the cool side was 76-80 and the area above the hide with a the che was 92. Huge gradients in a wood cage now immagine the problems in a glass tank... you could have a 70 degree floor temp and have an 82 ambient. If it feels cold to your hand it proably is.

                Here's anither cage that has two heat mats attached to the top of the cage and three floor cobra heat mats under the wood Look how quickly the humidity dropped when I opned the door and the heat came on and the floor is heating up with a cobra mat under the thin plywood and the floor temp is already 100 at the sensor glass heats up even faster thats why I put a thermostat in the loop the black sensor probe is to the thermostat.


                The only really cheap way to fix cage problems is be sure your cage was made for reptiles like the boaphile cages most tanks with screens can have problems and are very difficult to control. many home built cage are great but moisture can ruin a cage very quickly all the wood in my cages are a melanine formica coated cage and I stil had to seal all the corners and seems with silicon glue.

                And another common problem is if the boa is trying to shed and hasn't shed they will stop feeding until they shed be sure you raise the humididty during that week to 10 days. Have you seen any blueing of the eye's and they tend to darken or grey up...



                some times they clear up and sort of look normal for a couple days an then they shed.
                DOug

                ps my high tech thermometer/hydormeter came from wallmart and lowes, they were designed to measure indor and outdoor temps thru a window I use the three temp one to measure ambient and floor and humidity it was around 28.00.. alittle higher than the temp humididty ones at walmart for 18.00
                that floor temp is useful for UTH monitoring..

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                • #9
                  Re:Yet another Newbie question

                  Whats the weather like where your at? I had one of my pythons go off feed for 3 months, he lost some weight but just didn't want to eat. I tried every trick in the book, but he just stopped. I started to research this and found out that snakes often go off feed during certain parts of the year, and sometimes its due to over handling. Leave him alone for a while and see if that helps. But like everyone one else already said, it's probably the temp. If he is cool to the touch when you take him out, you need to heat up his cage. If his body temp isn't right he wont eat because he wont be able to digest the prey..........Scott

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                  • #10
                    Re:Yet another Newbie question

                    Hey, did the Boa eat for you yet? I am almost sure he just needs to be settled in. Boa's are not usually picky eater's and from what I've heard they do not go off feed for no reason. Pythons are more dificult to feed that boa's by a stretch. I had one snake that ate 4 days after I recieved him. And one that I had to offer food to 3 times before she took it, 9 days into our home. Keep us updated.....

                    **Beth**

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                    • #11
                      Re:Yet another Newbie question

                      My baby boa won't eat unless it's dark and no one is around watching. I've heard that some snakes just prefer privacy while they eat. Sid is so small that I just put him in a shoe box with the lid on and leave him alone for a while. With a larger one, maybe just put it in a big rubbermaid tub, put a blanket or something on top. But everyone has probably hit it right on the nose suggesting that it's just stress from the move. Just thought I'd throw in another idea that has come from my limited experience.

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