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*I see a few posts from time to time that addresses the numerous problems that occur when trying to to use a fish tank (glass aquarium type) for a snake.. *Although that sounds funny, it is the primary type enclosure used for snakes.
* My first reptile cage was a forty critter size and I was trying to raise a Guyana baby, a little tiny worm of a snake and she almost died during that learning curve, because I didn't know they like it warmer than BCI, and a little extra humidity.
Here she is...
So she had a rough couple months till I joined a BOA forum.
Here's some of the things I think can cause problems in these type tanks.
1.) Heat Lamps/CHE's (Ceramic Heat Emitter) *- These tend to over heat the tank and remove all the humidity due to updraft under the heat source. The snake usually hides on the cool side which is usually to cool and can become very ill from the low temperatures, and symptoms such as lack of appetite, lethargic behavior, respiratory infections and partial sheds are sure to follow.
2.) *The humidty goes away after a couple hours under the CHE/heat lamp (ps Lights stress most snakes and shouldn't be used 24 hours)
*So I tried numerous things, but the final thing that really worked well for me was to buy a sheet of that 1/4 inch 4/6 ft cheap wall insulation, and cut it*to fit the tank exterior, bottom, back ,and top. *I used a skill knife to cut it after I marked a line with a ruler.*I would clean up the edges of the insulation for the top and used duck tape to hold it in place. Hey it made it look a little better and held that over head heat mat on the insulation for easy removal with the insulation, for water changes feeding and outings.
*I*use a UTH (Under the Tank Heater) with a thermostat device and placed the thermostat sensor 1 inch from the floor to allow some warming before it cycles off. NOTE: You MUST use a thermostat type device or you may fry the snake. *Cover the top of the tank with two pieces of wall insualtion to allow some air flow and help hold in the humidty.
*And finally, I added an over head heat pad from Big Apple herp, to add a little additional heat to the interior of that tank. It is taped to the left heat saver facing down.
I usally put a towel over the heat savers so you can't see them in place. Note: the left piece of insulation has a desert ray infared heater taped to it facing down at the boa they get gentle warming from the under side due to the UTH and gentle warmth from above due to the desert ray infared heat. The thermostat cycles at 82 and prevents over heating. The insulation holds heat and humidty.
All my cages have wall insulation under the flooring over the tops and in the back..
Search the internet or these forums for reptile heat sources
I find the Under the tank heaters (UTH) heat mats use very little power...
After reviewing some of the post on this forum and many others, I must modify this post to reccomend a better thermostat for your cages than those 30.00 dollar ESU ones, I have been lucky to date with mine but some people have actually cooked their snakes in the cage with a cheap thermostat.
So All my cages now using this a much safer and reliable thermostat.
I found a *thermometer and hydrometer at wall mart for 18 bucks and it has two temp sensors one you can attatch to the floor over the uth to make sure it isn't over heating, it also has memory*that can be useful for checking peaks during that warm up.
-Doug
PS if your thinking about a cage maybe a Boaphile would be better than any fish tank and is probably cheaper than fixing up a glass tank...go here
http://www.boaphileplastics.com/
* My first reptile cage was a forty critter size and I was trying to raise a Guyana baby, a little tiny worm of a snake and she almost died during that learning curve, because I didn't know they like it warmer than BCI, and a little extra humidity.
Here she is...
So she had a rough couple months till I joined a BOA forum.
Here's some of the things I think can cause problems in these type tanks.
1.) Heat Lamps/CHE's (Ceramic Heat Emitter) *- These tend to over heat the tank and remove all the humidity due to updraft under the heat source. The snake usually hides on the cool side which is usually to cool and can become very ill from the low temperatures, and symptoms such as lack of appetite, lethargic behavior, respiratory infections and partial sheds are sure to follow.
2.) *The humidty goes away after a couple hours under the CHE/heat lamp (ps Lights stress most snakes and shouldn't be used 24 hours)
*So I tried numerous things, but the final thing that really worked well for me was to buy a sheet of that 1/4 inch 4/6 ft cheap wall insulation, and cut it*to fit the tank exterior, bottom, back ,and top. *I used a skill knife to cut it after I marked a line with a ruler.*I would clean up the edges of the insulation for the top and used duck tape to hold it in place. Hey it made it look a little better and held that over head heat mat on the insulation for easy removal with the insulation, for water changes feeding and outings.
*I*use a UTH (Under the Tank Heater) with a thermostat device and placed the thermostat sensor 1 inch from the floor to allow some warming before it cycles off. NOTE: You MUST use a thermostat type device or you may fry the snake. *Cover the top of the tank with two pieces of wall insualtion to allow some air flow and help hold in the humidty.
*And finally, I added an over head heat pad from Big Apple herp, to add a little additional heat to the interior of that tank. It is taped to the left heat saver facing down.
I usally put a towel over the heat savers so you can't see them in place. Note: the left piece of insulation has a desert ray infared heater taped to it facing down at the boa they get gentle warming from the under side due to the UTH and gentle warmth from above due to the desert ray infared heat. The thermostat cycles at 82 and prevents over heating. The insulation holds heat and humidty.
All my cages have wall insulation under the flooring over the tops and in the back..
Search the internet or these forums for reptile heat sources
I find the Under the tank heaters (UTH) heat mats use very little power...
After reviewing some of the post on this forum and many others, I must modify this post to reccomend a better thermostat for your cages than those 30.00 dollar ESU ones, I have been lucky to date with mine but some people have actually cooked their snakes in the cage with a cheap thermostat.
So All my cages now using this a much safer and reliable thermostat.
I found a *thermometer and hydrometer at wall mart for 18 bucks and it has two temp sensors one you can attatch to the floor over the uth to make sure it isn't over heating, it also has memory*that can be useful for checking peaks during that warm up.
-Doug
PS if your thinking about a cage maybe a Boaphile would be better than any fish tank and is probably cheaper than fixing up a glass tank...go here
http://www.boaphileplastics.com/
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