Where can I find caresheets

[kahaj]

for Northern Pines? -been lookin' all over & can't come up with much of anything.

[kahaj]

Re: Where can I find caresheets

Great, thanks Viper! ;D ;D

[kahaj]

Re: Where can I find caresheets

I've been trying to get this to work as you said, but it won't.

It gives me a page to enter the common/scientific name & search it up. I tried both, but it didn't give me any matches. So, I contacted them, but they have yet to reply to me.

::me shrugs::

[Guest]

Re: Where can I find caresheets

It seems they have changed the setup of their site. I'll see if I can find another site on Northern Pines for you.

[Guest]

Re: Where can I find caresheets

Here is what that site DID have until now on Northern Pine Snakes. I still try to find a couple more caresheets on them.


Northern Pine Snake
(Pituphis melanoleucus melanoleucus)
Distribution
This species occurs throughout New Jersey down to Alabama, and in smaller numbers in surrounding areas.
Size
This species of Pituophis rarely exceeds 215cm (6.5ft) although larger specimens can and do occur occasionally.
Diet
Their main diet consists of pink mice and fuzzies for hatchlings although in the wild their main diet would normally consist of small lizards and rodents. In captivity adults will usually feed readily on appropriately sized rodents, i.e. mice and small to medium rats. As the snake gets bigger so will the food items.
Requirements
Heat Source:- This can be either reflector spot lights in green or red, ceramics or thermostatically controlled heat mats.


UV Light Source:- Although there is a lot of controversy regarding the use of UV supplementation with snakes, many herpetologists wouldn't be without one. It has therefore been included here as a suggestion and the recommended type for snakes until further scientific research proves otherwise is a 2.0% UVB. This should be left on for 8 to 12 hours a day and replaced every 6 months unless otherwise stated by the manufacturer. However, care should be taken if your snake is albino as the light intensity could have a detrimental effect on the snakes eyes. Vitamin D3 supplements should also be kept to a minimum.


Housing:- This should consist of a dark wooden vivarium with glass frontage and adequate ventilation. Juveniles would require a small hatchling tub (pen pal, geoflat or even a ventilated sandwich box) which can be housed in a heated vivarium. A pair of adult snakes can live quite happily in a vivarium measuring 90cm long by 45cm deep by 45cm high (36 inches by 18 inches by 18 inches.


Thermostat:- An essential part of any vivarium and is required to regulate the internal temperatures of the vivarium and to prevent your pet from becoming too hot or too cold.


Wire Mesh Guards:- These should be fitted over all heat sources used in order to prevent thermal burns.


Thermometers:- One should be placed at each end of the vivarium in order to give an accurate reading of the temperatures within the vivarium. Never go by the temperature on the thermostat as these are often inaccurate.


Hides:- These are essential to prevent stress and allow your pet to hide away from the outside world. Artificial plants, boxes, plant pots, caves etc. all make excellent hides. Some branches should also be provided as some species require areas to climb.
Water
These animals require a water container which will allow them to bathe without constriction. This water should be changed daily as this is also the water they drink. They require low levels of humidity.
Temperature
A background temperature of 25 - 26°C (75 - 78°F) should be created with a basking area of one third of the vivarium reaching temperatures of 27 - 28°C (80 - 82°F). At night the temperature may be allowed to drop to 26°C (78°F) although this is not recommended if the snake is suffering any respiratory infections.
Substrate
This can be anything from newspaper, brown paper or chip shop paper. Whatever you use remember that it must be cleaned on a regular basis to prevent contamination from disease. Never feed your snake over substrate that could be ingested. Corn cob and wood chippings should not be used as substrate for this reason.
Brumation
If you choose to brumate your snake a temperature of 12 - 17°C (52 - 62°F) for a period of 90 days would be satisfactory. Most people tend to do this around the end of October until the end of January. Water should always be available and no food should be given from 2 weeks before the beginning of the brumation period. Brumation is not recommended if your snake is unwell in any way or if your snake has not eaten sufficiently during the year. It is also not recommended for hatchlings.
N.B.
This species of snake has an extremely noisy hiss just like the rest of the Pituophis. This generally is meant as a bluff and usually disappears after a short period in captivity.

Salmonella
Many reptiles carry the naturally forming bacteria Salmonella. It must be stated that salmonella bacteria can only be contracted by ingestion (via the mouth). Good hygiene is therefore very important when keeping any animal.

[Guest]

Re: Where can I find caresheets

Here is a second care sheet on Northern Pine Snakes:

THE NORTHERN PINE SNAKE
Pituophis melanoleucus

Author:ANTHONY SINN

Description: The Northern Pine snake is a hardy and attractive snake that can attain a size of about 66 inches. They have highly keeled dorsal scales that give a rough feel to their skin as they move through your hands. Their base colour is white or pale grey with large brown or black irregular blotches changing to stripes on the anterior of the body. The ventral area (belly) is white to off-white with a single ventral scale (scale covering the body opening where tail meets body). The three characteristics that distinguish Northern pines are the pointed head; the rounded and somewhat enlarged rostral scale (scale at the tip of the nose); and the four prefrontal scales (those located just one row forward from the row of scales between the eyes). When choosing a Northern Pine Snake as a pet, try to avoid wild caught specimens as they often harbour internal and external parasites, are very nervous and often do not adjust well to captivity and can be problem feeders.

Distribution: South New Jersey, West Virginia, North Georgia, southwest and southeast North Carolina.

Husbandry: Adult Northern Pine Snakes require a fairly large cage complete with hiding areas, freshwater for drinking, medium humidity, a gradient temperature and a very secured lid to prevent escapes. The minimum dimensions of the cage should be 2m x .75m x .5m. This cage should have an ambient temperature of about 25°C +/- 2°C during the day with a drop in temperature to 20°C at night. Heating the cage can be achieved with the addition of a secured light bulb that is protected from the cage occupant(s) so as to prevent burns. To prevent overheating, a thermostat should be installed in the cage and the light connected to it. For proper shedding, a relative humidity between 50 - 70% is preferred. This can be accomplished by keeping a humidifier within the same room as the environment. The gradient temperature can be achieved by heating one end of the cage to 25°C - 30°C with a heating pad or heat tape and allow the opposite end to be a couple of degrees cooler. To monitor the temperature, a thermometer should be included in the design. Though Northern Pine Snakes do not require ultraviolet they do require a photoperiod of 12 to 15 hours per day during their active months. The ground medium can consist of either pine wood shavings, sand, fine orchid bark, newspaper or bare floor. The sand and orchid bark are aesthetically attractive and can be easily scooped out when soiled. Newspaper is ideal for two reasons: it has a antibacterial agent due to the printing; and is convenient for for quick and easy cleaning.

Diet: Northern Pine Snakes have a healthy appetite and a very efficient digestive system with the exception of some females. Occasionally young females seem to have difficulties digesting and will occasionally regurgitate if too large a food item is eaten. Feeding small, more frequent meals seem to eliminate this problem. They will readily feed on appropriate size rats, mice, gerbils, rabbits and sometimes birds. Day-old chicks are occasionally take but are rather low in nutrients and should be fed infrequently. It is recommended to feed food that is dead as there have been serious injuries caused by rodents intended as food that decided to fighting back.

Common disease or problems: Ectoparasite (external parasites) can be easily treated by the keeper. Ticks can be dabbed with Q-tip dipped in rubbing alcohol and then a few minutes later removed with tweezers. Mites can be eradicated by exposure to a small 1/2 inch square piece of Vapona® Strip for 48 hours and then the process repeated 14 days later. It is advisable to remove the water while exposed to the Vapona®. Internal parasites can be diagnosed with a stool analysis done by your local vet. Once the parasite has ben identified, your veterinarian can recommend the proper medication at the appropriate reptile dosage. Blister disease Vesicular dermatitis can be life threatening. If discolouration or blisters appear on the abdominal area, consult your vet immediately. Respiratory infections are identified by laboured breathing or bubbling at the nose and/or mouth should receive immediate veterinary attention. Usually caused by drafty environmental conditions.

References:

Pine Snakes: A Complete Guide, W.P. Mara, TFH, 1994
Audubone Field Guide to North American Reptiles and Amphibians, Bebler & King, Kinopf, 1992
The Completely Illustrated Atlas of Reptiles and Amphibians for the Terrarium, TFH, 1984

[kahaj]

Re: Where can I find caresheets

Great! Thanks Viper. I really apreciatte it. I think I'll look into the book that is referenced.

[Guest]

Re: Where can I find caresheets

Great!  Thanks Viper.  I really apreciatte it.  I think I'll look into the book that is referenced.

No problem kahaj, these care guides are all that I could find. Hope it helps.

[T.C.]

Re: Where can I find caresheets

I disagree with one statement in the care shown. In the wild there is no known NORTHERN Pine in Alabama. You'll find Southerns and Blacks, but not Northerns. Anyhow that is not a disagreement with you only the writer of the care guide. As far as Georgia they have found Pines that appeared to be Northerns, but in reallity are probably crosses between the Northern and Blacks.